Eating the season

March 22nd, 2011

Coming in to Sonairte today it would have been hard to miss the Springtime. Dandelions and primroses are appearing all along the roadside – the primroses on the banks at Julianstown and Duleek are particularly good. And both primroses and dandelions are good on the dinner table. The Romans (and others since) boiled primrose leaves but I’m not wild about those. I am wild about candied primrose blossoms though, especially since we used to make them to decorate the Simnel cake for Easter when I was a child.

And dandelions are wonderful. I like to turn a bucket upside down over a strong plant to exclude the light so that the new leaves grow as pale and delicious as those pointed buds of chicory we pay such a lot for at the supermarket. In fact dandelions and chicory are relatives and recipes for one always work for the other. Even if you don’t blanch the leaves this way they are great in a stir fry and the roots can be dug and sliced thinly for the stir fry as well. Or dried, ground, and used as a coffee substitute. They don’t taste like coffee at all to my mind but they do make a nice drink.

As for dandelion flowers, they take me back to my childhood and Grandad’s dandelion wine, made on St George’s day, April 23rd, when they are usually at their best. Grandad’s version was fortified – he added a bottle of brandy to the barrel when it had finished fermenting. I don’t do that but it is still pretty special, carrying the honey scent of spring deep into the winter.

Just one word of caution – don’t pick from the roadside because of pollution levels, and don’t pick primroses from the wild – even though they may seem plentiful they won’t be if you keep picking them. So grow some in your own garden. Keep splitting the plants and let them seed around and in a couple of years a single plant will begin to take over the lawn if you have the sense to keep the lawnmower off.

Wild garlic champ

February 28th, 2011

With Potato Day coming up I felt moved to make champ but was saddened to find I didn’t have any scallions yet grown big enough make it with. I was going to use thin sliced leeks instead when inspiration hit – wild garlic champ. These weren’t our true native wild garlic – that isn’t quite big enough yet either at this stiage in the spring – but the invasive allium triquestrum, the tricorn garlic, which is an alien weed moving in on many gardens. So what better way to get rid of it than to eat it? I dug up a clump of it whole, including both the green leaves, the white stems below ground and the bulblets – I even included the first flowers. Later in the spring I’ll use true wild garlic (or scallions, or both)

Ingredients
100 gm wild garlic
150 ml full fat milk – it isn’t the same with skimmed
1 kg floury potatoes in their jackets, scrubbed
50 gm salted butter
A pinch of sea salt

Method
Boil or steam the potatoes in their skins. While they are cooking wash the garlic and slice it thinly crossways. Put it in a small pan with the milk and bring to the boil. Take it off the heat immediately and leave it to one side – you want all the flavour in the milk and your garlic to stay a nice bright green but be tender. Skin the potatoes and return them to the rinsed pan. Bring the garlic and milk back up to the boil with the butter and sea salt and gradually add to the potatoes, mashing as you go so you have alight fluffy mashed potato streaked with fresh green bursts of flavour. Serve in a pretty bowl with more butter on the side and crystal salt and fresh ground black pepper available.

© Kathy Marsh@Sonairte 2011

March 6th – Our First Potato Day!

February 19th, 2011

I love growing potatoes – at different times and in different gardens I’ve grown them in the flat beds, raised beds, lazy beds, small pots, big pots and half barrels – I’ve tried whole barrels but they weren’t any better than the half barrels so I only did it once. Anyone can grow them who has a couple of square feet of outdoor space. If you’ve only got a Juliet balcony you won’t fit in more than will make a couple of meals but if you’ve got a patio and determination you could trial a dozen different kinds to see which one you like best.
Or at least you could if came along to Sonairte’s Potato Day where you can see and learn about over a hundred different kinds and buy fifty different kinds to grow yourself. And the beauty of it is that you can buy exactly the number of each kind that you want – if you only want one seed potato you can just buy one, if you want a hundred you can buy those, carefully counted out – although you can’t buy more than one or two of the rarest kinds and you’ll need to be there early to get those one or two.
Sonairte is really lucky because Dave Langford, Ireland’s best informed potato grower, and Dermot Carey, in whose care Dave’s amazing potato collection has been recently, have agreed to come along and talk about the wonderful spud. They’ll tell you its history and how to grow it, what dishes different varieties are best for, and how to keep the dreaded blight at bay. With Dermot you can even help to plant a “Lazy Bed” Aran style and then you can revisit the centre all summer to see how that bed is getting one, and even buy the potatoes to eat in the autumn.
We will have potatoes that have white, pink, red, gold, blue, purple and black skins and white, gold, red and blue flesh – even after cooking. There will be varieties for boiling, steaming, baking, mashing, chips, salads and any other potato dish you fancy. They will have originated in Ireland, Scotland, the UK, France, Germany, the USA, Italy, Hungary and Mexico.
The cafe will be selling delicious potato dishes and there will be potato printing and potato games for children.
So come and join us in celebrating the humble yet glorious spud
Sunday March 6th 12 noon to 5pm

Still time for pruning

February 19th, 2011

Between work at Sonairte and the day job I haven’t had a chance to do any pruning at home – either in the orchard or around the garden. So here’s a quick overview of what I’ll be out doing again as soon as the rain eases up. After pruning each tree will get a about a two cm deep mulch of compost from the trunk right out to the edge of the branches and in the summer I try to keep an area around the trunk mulched with lawn mowings to keep the scutch down. Don’t forget to put a new grease band round the trunk at this time of year to catch pests that have overwintered in the soil.

You can increase the productivity of all these by summer pruning and I’ll be teaching a half day hands-on course on how to do this, and how to prune the plum and cherry family in July – contact info@sonairte.ie for details

Plums, cherries, peaches and apricots – leave strictly alone at this time of year. These must only be pruned in warm summer weather so they heal quickly and fungal spores don’t get in and kill them. Actually I could prune peach and apricot because I’ve got them in the polytunnel out of the rain, but I’ve been nipping back and tying in as they grew – they are only still babies – so they don’t need attention. For how well peaches can do in a polytunnel check Nicky Kyles garden diary to see the crop on a tree that she bought from Aldi only two years ago.

Grapes – These must be pruned before they start into growth – leave it too late and they will literally bleed to death. Sonairte gets a great crop from the vines on the south facing wall at the top of the garden. My garden is colder so I rely on the ones I grow in the tunnel and it pots in the conservatory. Some years I get a crop out of doors and some years I don’t. Basically, once you have a framework established you simply cut back to just leave two of last years buds on each rod.

Mulberries – I haven’t been growing these for long enough for my baby trees to need pruning but I’m simply going to take off growth that is out of reach. I find them great because they fruit over a long season – almost two months last year – and I love the icy crunch of them in the mouth. We developed a habit of standing under the tree for breakfast last year

Figs – I find that all I need to do is cut out any branches that are causing overcrowding and tip back the fruiting branches by about a third of the new growth. They crop wonderfully well in a tub if you only have a balcony – the most productive of balcony fruit in my experience.

Hazel – OK, its a nut not a fruit. Pruning depends what you want it for. I grow six different varieties of cob for nuts and I do what is called “brutting”. You walk round the big bushes in summer and snap the ends of any branches that don’t have a worthwhile nut crop on them – don’t snap the ones that have nuts on. You don’t need to break them right off – ragged is fine. Then this time of year go round again and trim these ragged ends to neaten them up. Sounds odd but it makes them form lots more fruit buds. You can take out all the crossing wood etc but I find that leaving them as natural as possible works best for me. I also grow the twisted hazel, which not only makes a nice decoration for the house at this time of year when the catkins will open indoors in a jug of water, but helps to pollinate the other bushes, I grow a red leaved one which looks lovely at the back of the border, particularly in spring and autumn, and I grow the ordinary hedgerow hazel and at this time of year I cut back a couple of bushes almost to ground level to use the poles to support runner beans etc this summer. It takes five to ten years, depending on conditions, for them to produce really good tall strong stems.

If my walnuts and chestnuts ever get big enough to need pruning – they’ve been in for twenty years now – I’ll let you know how to do it. They don’t crop worth mentioning in a cold wet north facing garden.

Spring is coming!

February 4th, 2011

Three days after St Brigid’s Day, two days after Candlemas and the dates that traditionally galvanise the gardener into action. Even if your soil is still cold and wet and the wind is blowing twigs round your ears you should get out last year’s seed packets and check what is still good to sow this year and what you need to buy for next year. The good organic gardener will have kept their soil covered during the winter with mulch or green manure so there will be few weeds and lots of plant food available for this growing season. If frost hasn’t killed the green manure you can cut it down now and leave it lying on the beds to start breaking down into food for the worms and the soil. You should also be cutting down any dead stems still standing from last year – the birds have taken any remaining seeds by now and they are homes for slugs and earwigs. Take them to the compost heap to turn into plant food.

Make sure you don’t walk on your flower and vegetable beds if you can possible help it – your soil will thank you for it by drying out quickly and being ready to sow and plant sooner. If you have some clear soil that is reasonably dry you can sow broad beans and early peas now and cover the ground with fleece to get an early crop. They will go in the bed you have reserved for the legume (pea and bean) family in your rotation this year. You should also make sure you’ve bought your seed potatoes and set them up to “chit” – which means grow shoots. If you put them in a box in a light place you’ll get nice short fat shoots that will be east to plant without breaking them when St Patrick’s Day planting comes around.

If you are lucky enough to have a polytunnel or greenhouse things are already getting really busy – by now you can be sowing your summer cabbages, which are very hardy, and cresses, scallions and summer purslane. Its a good idea to hold back on lettuce unless you have some heat. But if you do have a propagator, or even a window sill, then its time to sow just a few early tomatoes, peppers and aubergines. The very earliest tomatoes are Sub-Arctic Plenty and Earligirl – there are better flavoured ones for later in the season but a couple of plants of each will be very, very welcome when they come into fruit and save you from the imported ones that never taste of anything anyway.

And now I’m heading for the nature trail at Sonairte to see if I can find early primroses or even violets – the snowdrops and cyclamen are in full bloom and there’s a lovely clump of crocuses outside the shop door – five times as many as last year, they’ve spread wonderfully

Slow Food at Sonairte – an introduction

November 18th, 2010

What is Slow Food? Basically it is the opposite of Fast Food – it is food you prepare yourself in your own home, starting from good quality local ingredients. It is food you share with your family and friends. It is grown in your own garden or on local family farms, bought in local markets, and grown without chemicals.

At Sonairte Slow Food is made as far as possible from the vegetables grown in our organic garden, and from produce bought from local organic farmers.

The menu below comes from my recent demonstration of cheap, easy, seasonal cookery. I started with just a few ingredients and showed just a few of the possibilities, trying to make everything as simple as possible so that anyone, beginner or dedicated cook, could use the evening as a jumping off point for their own kitchen experiments.

Not everything below got made on the night – we only had a couple of hours so the apple cake fell by the wayside.

On the “here’s one I made earlier” front barley and split peas were put to soak in the morning – each was placed in a bowl and covered with water to a depth of two inches – and a batch of basic bread dough was started two hours before the class.

Basic bread dough

The bread was made by mixing together 1 kg of strong white bread flour, 1 sachet instant dried yeast, 1 tsp fine sea salt. Then I added 675 ml warm water, stirred it in and then kneaded it until the dough was smooth. For those who want to know more I’ll be teaching a day of bread (and butter) making in the spring.

Next the barley and split peas were brought to the boil in separate pans and simmered for fifteen minutes before being taken off the heat.

Then seasonal vegetables – carrots, parsnips, beetroot, onions, sweet potato and garlic were peeled and either cut into batons or chopped into big pieces – according to what we were going to do with them.  I know sweet potatoes don’t grow easily in Ireland – I cheated – you could use pumpkin or squash and I’d intended to but changed my mind at the last minute. Slow food is a flexible concept.

I tossed the vegetables in two tablespoonsful of cold pressed sunflower oil – or you could use any other good earthy flavoured oil – and put them in a roasting tin in a hot oven – 180C – with a sprig of rosemary and a couple of bayleaves

At the same time I put baking potatoes into the same oven – just washed and popped in onto the shelf

These were the basic ingredients that were used to make the recipes on the evening and a roast vegetable soup the following day.

Split Pea Hummus

In a liquidizer or small food processor blitz together cooked split peas, parsley, thyme, black pepper, salt to taste, a little of the cooking liquid and a small amount of oil – not at all like hummus but very tasty

Yoghurt and Mint Dip

For a second dip I blitzed together home made yoghurt – see next year’s kitchen dairy course – and fresh mint.

These were served with the following – raw vegetable batons, cooked vegetable batons, and crispy potato skins

Crispy Potato Skins

Take baked potatoes and halve them. Spoon out the centre leaving a shell about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut the skins into suitable sized strips. Mix a tablespoon of oil and a generous pinch of fine salt in a bowl and turn the strips over and over until all the oil is used up – you need to use your hands for this or you won’t get a good coating without using a lot more oil and salt than is good for you. Place the strips on a baking tray and return to the hot oven.

Reserve the potato from the middle for making an Apple Potato Cake, Potato Cakes, Bubble and Squeak or any other suitable potato dish.

Then there was

Roast Vegetable Pizza and mini Calzone

Take a quarter of the bread dough, shape it into a round (or whatever shape your baking sheet is), roll out thinly, brush with cold pressed oil, scatter with a few thyme leaves and dot with pieces of chopped up roasted vegetables. Top with cheese or not as you prefer. Bake for 20 minutes in your 180C oven.

Or you can pinch off small pieces of dough, flatten them into rounds and put a tablespoon of the same mix onto each one. Fold in back into a half circle and pinch the edges together well. Either bake, or for a really sinful treat deep fry.

Barley and vegetable risotto

Simply mix together the cooked barley and roasted vegetables, with chopped parsley. Salt and pepper to taste if necessary

Roast vegetable soup with barley and split peas

I forgot to mention that clean vegetable peelings should be covered with water and simmered along with a bay leaf, a branch of thyme, a few peppercorns and any celery tops you have to hand to make a delicious vegetable stock. Strain the liquid into a clean pan and add barley, split peas and roasted vegetables to taste. Bring back up to the boil, season and serve

roast vegetable pizza and mini calzone

And now back to the fluffy cooked potato you scooped out of the middle of those potato skins. It is important that baked potatoes have a good floury texture – at Sonairte we grow Sarpo Axona which is tasty and floury and doesn’t get potato blight so it is ideal for chemical free gardening

My favourite way of using them is in

Apple Potato Cake

3 cups of mashed potato (use a drop of milk but not too much)

1.5 cups plain flour – white is best for a more delicate flavour and texture

3 oz butter

½ tsp baking powder

Good pinch of salt

Knead them all well together to make a soft dough and pat it out into two rounds on a well floured surface. Put one round into a buttered and floured pie tin.

Slice well flavoured cooking apples – I’m using Blenheim Orange at this time of year – to cover the pastry leaving an inch wide ring around the outside. Sprinkle with a tablespoon of sugar and a little cinnamon. Dot with 2 ounces of butter and place the top circle of pastry on top, sealing down the edge all around.

Bake for half an hour at 180C

Baked apples and apple crumble are two other quick, easy and delicious seasonal treats

Enjoy

Kathy

Growing Salads in the Winter

October 28th, 2010

A member of Sonairte staff wants to know if it is too late to sow anything in her polytunnel. No it isn’t – in fact to my mind it is never too late to sow a few winter crops in polytunnels, greenhouses, window sills or even to take a chance on a small patch of bare earth in the garden – especially if that patch of bare earth is a raised bed so the ground won’t easily get soggy.

Best for all year round germination are the brassicas – the cabbage family. They’ll come up like the proverbial mustard and cress, in fact mustard is one of them, not matter when you sow so long as the soil stays a few degrees above freezing. And even if it does freeze most of them will pick themselves up and keep growing.

At this time of year I often gather up the ends of seed packets – cabbages, broccoli, turnips, rocket, land cress, purslane, chinese greens and mustards of all kinds, maybe chicory, maybe carrots. Even winter spinach and onions. I use seeds where the packet has been open for a season or more so germination may not be great. Then I just weed the patch where they are going, scatter the seeds over the surface and rake them in lightly. If I’m sowing under cover I water them in, if not I reckon the soil is wet enough at this time of year. And then I watch to see what comes up and pick the baby leaves when they are a couple of inches long, picking a leaf off each plant so there are leaves left to keep it growing. Absolutely delicious salad right through the winter.

And even if you don’t have a polytunnel or greenhouse you can make your own cold frame or cloche very easily – lots of plans around on line. Or maybe you should just watch this space.

WILDLIFE GARDENING

October 13th, 2010

October is a busy month in the organic garden. As the leaves begin to fall wildlife is heading for its winter quarters. Codlin moth and wax moth larvae start to crawl down tree trunks to spend the winter in the soil before emerging for another year’s destruction of  the fruit crop.  Here at Sonairte they don’t make it into the soil – the tree trunks are wrapped with sticky grease bands and it catches them as they go past. We also hang up seeds and nuts for the birds who diligently search the cracks in the branches for any other overwintering pests.

This weekend (16th October) is our annual gardening for wildlife day with lots of ideas for ways of attracting birds, bees and other friends into the garden – and persuading them to make their home there. We’ll be talking about planting, bird feeders, dry stone walls and water in the garden among other topics.

And then it will be autumn pruning time and a full day of fruit related topics on the 13th November.

More Great Recipes

September 29th, 2010
With autumn fruit hanging from the hedgerows and neighbours depositing bags
of apples on friends doorsteps in the middle of the night to get rid of
their surplus this old favourite may come in handy. Note a couple of tweaks
to tradition - the addition of porridge oats and hazelnuts to the crumble
topping and the two different sugars - using brown sugar in the topping but
ordinary granulated with the fruit makes a nice taste contrast. You could
also use wholemeal flour instead of the plain and the crumble topping will
still be good if you cut down on either or both of the sugar and butter in
the topping.
Try it out in the cafe at Sonairte

-AppleBlackberryCrumble-RBIG
Blackberry and apple crumble

Ingredients:

Crumble topping

In a food processor pulse together until crumbly

	• 1/4 pound (1/2 cup) shelled and husked hazelnuts
	• 3 ounces (3/4 cup) plain flour
	• 3 ounces (3/4 cup) porridge oats
	• 4 ounces (1/2 cup packed) soft brown sugar
	• 4 ounces (1/2 cup) butter

Or chop the hazelnuts and rub the rest of the ingredients together as you
would for pastry
• 1/2 pound (1-3/4 cups) blackberries (picked from hedgerow)
• 1 pound (3 or 4 medium) apples (windfalls will do) peeled, cored
   and sliced
• 1 tablespoon white sugar mixed with a pinch of cinnamon powder

Butter a shallow casserole dish and layer blackberries and apples.
Dust over with the cinnamon sugar mixture
Top with Crumble topping and bake in 180 degrees centigrade
(160 C fan oven) for 30 to 40 minutes until top is lightly browned
and crisp and fruit is soft.
Serve with fresh cream, mascarpone or creme fraiche according to
personal preference.

Harvest time at Sonairte

September 28th, 2010

It has been a bumper year for apples and other autumn fruit, the hedgerows are dripping with wild berries and we are all hoping that the old wives tales aren’t true and we aren’t in for a bitter winter.

At Sonairte the cafe staff are dipping into their recipe books for interesting ways of using and storing the bounty, and celebrating the new fashions in frugality, while keeping it not too frugal.

Fruit pies and crumbles are one obvious way of celebrating autumn fruits – not just apple but blackberry or elderberry and apple. And the blackberries and elderberries make great wines and syrups as well. For the more adventurous there are pickles and chutneys, and of course you can always make cider.

This is also a good year for hazelnuts and sloes so keen foragers can make this traditional Hedgerow Jam

Hedgerow Jam

Ingredients

250 gm rose hips, 250 gm haws, 250 gm rowan berries, 250 gm sloes, 250 gm crab apples,  500 gm blackberries, 500 gm elderberries, 4 oz shelled fresh hazelnuts, Sugar (see recipe for quantity)

Equipment
Very large pan,  sieve, bowl, wooden spoon, small jug, jars, lids

Wash fruit well. Put rose hips, haws, rowanberries, sloes & chopped crab apples into a large pan, add water to half way up, simmer gently until tender (gentle simmering gives much better flavour than boiling).

Sieve the pulp, pushing it through the sieve with the wooden spoon and weigh it.  Write down the weight. Put the pulp back into the pan and add the blackberries, elderberries, and chopped nuts. Simmer, stirring regularly to make sure it doesn’t burn, for 15 minutes. Add ! kg sugar plus the weight of the pulp (the amount you wrote down) in sugar.  Cook over a low heat until sugar has dissolved, then boil rapidly until setting point is reach.  Pot in sterilized jars.

Look for more seasonal and wild food recipes on the Sonairte website http://sonairte.ie/about/blog